Some Words About Malbec
In our days Malbec is almost a synonym of Argentine red wine. Yet most evidence suggests that the Malbec grape variety was originally known as Côt (Noir) which probably came from northern Burgundy. It should be noted that, despite the similarities in name, Malbec Argenté is not Malbec but a variety of Abouriou from south-western France.
Out of less
than 57,000 hectares planted with Malbec around the world Argentina boosts with
45,000 hectares ( 80 % ). Rest goes to Chile ( 5,500 hectares ) and Cahors (
4,000 hectares ) in France. A couple of wine regions in the United States do
trials with Malbec on a scale of 20 to 40 (!) hectares each.
Historically
Malbec belonged among those six grape varieties which were legal ingredients of
Bordeaux blends. However, its presence in Bordeaux became insignificant for two
reasons. The phylloxera plague in the late 19th century almost completely
destroyed it. The devastating frost of 1956 delivered the coup de grâce to the
variety. Whereas the frost also destroyed the vines of Cahors, Malbec was
replanted and remained popular there.
Malbec was introduced
to Argentina by the French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget ( Miguel Pouget ) in
the early 1850s.
A popular
but unsubstantiated theory claims that the variety was named after a Hungarian monk called Malbeck or Malbek
who brought the grafted rootstocks from Cahors / France to South America.
Malbec found
its optimal terroir in Argentina in the semi - desert areas of the eastern
foothills of the Andes. The stony, sandy, loose soil of the region prevented the
existence of phylloxera ( in a similar way to how the sandy soil of the Southern
Hungarian Great Plain saved the genetic pool of the vines of the Carpathian
Basin ). The mid - season ripening grapes liked the large amount of sunshine
and their tannin content imparted distinct character to the wines produced from
them.
Mendoza is
the Malbec capital of the world. The vineyards over there are planted at an
altitude of at least 700 metres above sea level due to the heat. Vineyards and
other plantations are irrigated with precise regularity from the local
reservoirs. The vines are not forced to put down deep roots to find nutrients
and water. The vineyards of the region are all managed in almost the same way.
Both factors add to the result that – on almost 35,000 hectares - Malbec grapes
of very similar quality will be harvested each year.
Some
winemaker wanted to produce Malbec of a different character. They started an
intensive planting of vineyards in the valley of the river Uco about 80
kilometres south of the city of Mendoza 30 years ago. At 1,000 - 1,200 metres
above sea level those grapes became more interesting and intensely flavoured by
growing thicker skins due to the cooler nights and windier conditions.
There are
two other Malbec locations in Argentina that deserve mention: Salta 900 km to
the north and Neuquen (Rio Negro) 700 km to the south of Mendoza both at slopes of the
Andes.
Salta is
renowned for its very old rootstock planted at high altitude. 50 - 70 – year old
grapevines are not unusual. They deliver a very low yield but produce
exceptional quality.
In the
cooler climate of Neuquen, where also Pinot Noir is grown, the flavours of
Malbec enhance over a broader spectrum. The variety grown there is cast in an
entirely different light. Consider that: if Côt originates from Burgundy,
Malbec has returned to its true roots in Neuquen province often referred as
“Switzerland” of Argentina.
Authentic
Malbec is a very dark-coloured, well-textured, yet easy-to-enjoy wine with a
signature flavour of plum. Due to this characteristic it is quite difficult to
blend with other varieties. All in all, as a single variety wine Malbec is one
of the most popular reds, especially next to a juicy steak.
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