The heartfelt suspense of waiting for the grapes to transform

 

How do all the small decisions influence the life of a wine? Whose opinion merits attention when considering demand? What is needed to make a premium wine? How can tradition and innovation be combined? We talked to the head winemaker of the Jammertal Estate, Zsófia Kövesdi.

As the head winemaker at the Jammertal Winery, what are your aims for the next 3 years?

In the coming years I would like to finalise the different directions of styles of our wines and refine the preparatory technology of the different wines in our portfolio. This can be perfectly accomplished over 3 years since during this period of time, in spite of the differences of the vintages, similarities are well detectable For me the great challenge is to express my own interpretation in each of our wines while retaining the orientation they have had until now. I intend to create individual items which are not necessarily reproduced every year. I will not be revealing any real secrets if I mention my endeavours with Chardonnay maturing in the cellar or Pinot Noir ageing in bottles right now. 

Which is more important for you in your work: tradition or innovation? 

The most important thing is the equilibrium. I like to reconsider things whatever they may be: technology, a principle or a problem to be resolved. From time to time it is good to be able to look at tasks ahead of you in a new light. To create an exciting wine instead of a boring one is often a very difficult task. Winemaking has a tradition dating back centuries, but both science and technology keep advancing. The differences between Old World and New World wines are very distinct. Finding the right balance is a great challenge sometimes but that is what I am taking on.

Which was the first moment when you began to feel attracted to winemaking as a profession?

It was when I first saw for myself how a series of my own small actions and decisions could affect the life of grapes and wine. I first realised this in the Siduri Winery in California, when after several weeks of laborious crushing, deliberating and caring, the Pinot Noir I was taking care of at last got fermented.

Where did you eat the best food ever and what was it?

At home, of course. My father makes incredible dödölle, Hungarian fried gnocchi.

What do you like about working at Jammertal Wine Estate?

I can easily identify with its winemaking principles which makes my job considerably easier. The estate has state-of-art technology which is every winemaker’s dream. I can as effortlessly produce 40,000 identical bottles of high-end red wine as an experimental batch of a couple of hundred bottles. Jammertal Wine Estate would be considered one of the bests anywhere in our fast-moving world. Its professional consistency is of vital importance due to unforeseen and rapidly changing factors.

What are your ambitions as a winemaker?

I wish to keep myself improving and avoid that trap that so many fall into, to fool myself of knowing everything. The science of winemaking is constantly evolving, and time needs to be devoted to becoming familiar with new developments. This is a never-ending series of postgraduate courses. In addition, I’d want to approach my profession from a new perspective: the points of view of wine connoisseurs would interest me in particular. Today it is them who largely influence demand so it seems to make sense to learn their way of thinking. Tell me, how would I know how to make a “100-point” wine if I don’t know what they would give 100 points for? 

How do you relax?

I believe in active relaxation. I do a lot of sports, running and riding. I always find something new to learn and these activities are usually creative ones. I adore embroidery and knitting, but I also really like baking and more recently I’ve taken up drawing too. If I could, I would direct a movie although I would not call it a leisure activity.

What do you read ?

I have a decent backlog of books of wide variety. I usually read books I’ve been recommended. Taking in account that everyone’s taste is different I get to read books that I would have never taken off the shelf myself.

If someone wishes to surprise you, what would be the perfect gift for you?

Creativity makes me smile. Anything would do that connects to that person and is individual. I find immense pleasure in nature and plants. A delightful flower, for example, would be a winner – or a good bottle of wine.

What did you study? Where and why there?

I obtained a BSc in viticulture and oenology at Corvinus University Budapest. There I learned the basics of winemaking which provided a very solid foundation for my later studies. I did my master’s degree in France and Portugal. At that time, I chose Vinifera Euromaster program for good reasons. First, it was a joint organisation by the best oenology universities of five countries, thus it gave me a far broader overview of what was happening in the world than if I would have studied just in Bordeaux. I certainly wished to learn more. I had the feeling that simply graduating at university and gaining practical experience at a couple of places around the world was insufficient to make me a good winemaker. This was another reason why I joined Vinifera Euromaster. I think that I made a good decision.

What is the most exciting part of your job?

The vintage. I’m always terribly excited at harvest time, probably overexcited. For me personally, the fermentation is a fascinating experience every time – the heartfelt suspense of waiting for the yeast to react, the crushed grapes to transform into wine, to guide and complete successful fermentation process.

The head winemaker of the Jammertal Estate, Zsófia Kövesdi

https://jbb.hu/en/